FIDM Museum

On the next Collection Conversation, we welcome fashion historian and costume designer Henry Wilkinson, who specializes in the work of couturier Hubert de Givenchy. In addition to sharing his insights on the Givenchy objects in the FIDM Museum collection, Wilkinson will take us through his complete restoration of a Givenchy gown and how his research connected the garment to its original owner, American socialite Lee Radziwell. Tune into Instagram Live this Friday, April 9 at 11 am PST to watch!

Happy Easter! We'd be remiss not to celebrate with one of our many fabulous bonnets - and this green silk velvet example with vine embellishments is perfect for a spring day! You're looking at a 1940 interpretation of the 1830s: the bonnet was designed by Adrian, costume designer of MGM, for the 1940 version of Pride and Prejudice. A label in the interior reads "Ann Rutherford," the actress who portrayed Lydia Bennet in the movie. Though the Jane Austen book was released in 1...813, the studio decided to set the film in the 1830s purely for the aesthetics; they wanted the costumes to reflect the more extravagant silhouette of the 1830s. As with most mid-century Hollywood costume designers, Adrian used images of historic dress as a reference point, altering period styles to meet the expectations of a contemporary audience. With its tall, upright, flattened brim, this bonnet is no exception. Though the trimming of feathers, vines and ribbon are period-appropriate, the overall silhouette is exaggerated beyond what was actually worn in the 1830s. The rich green colors, which appear as shades of gray in the black and white film, were also chosen for their onscreen appearance. Click through to see a film still of Rutherford wearing the bonnet, as well as the matching green gown (private collection).

Our 1951 Norman Norell sailor-style day dress has taken to the (virtual) seas: you’ll find its photo throughout a new exhibition at the Hong Kong Maritime Museum! Sailor-Made: Manifestations of Nautical Fashion in Hong Kong Culture features a selection of historical images, uniforms, and costumes to demonstrate how nautical clothing has been adopted in mainstream fashions and global pop culture. The exhibition was mounted in conjunction with students at the University of Hong Kong, and runs through July 2021.

Join us for a virtual conversation with Oscar-nominated Costume Designer of Mank and FIDM grad Trish Summerville! Monday, April 19, 5 - 6 PM PST. Tickets are free; advanced registration required. http://ow.ly/w9L850Eg4mv

We're thrilled to share exciting digital programming for the month of April - plus, the Sporting Fashion catalogue is now available to purchase online at the FIDM Museum Shop! Read more in our latest newsletter: https://fidmmuseum.org/newsletter/2021/03/send.html

Our textile connoisseur, Museum Registrar/Coordinator Leigh Wishner, was tapped by Domestika for their latest Curious Minds podcast episode: A Spotty History of Patterns! Interviewed alongside artists and authors, Leigh provides the historical context of polka dots in fashion, and what the pattern communicates today. Listen on Spotify here: https://open.spotify.com/show/149nmYVwQtdtfLoqcZ7lbW Pictured: Marc Bohan for Christian Dior Spring/Summer 1981

Could you use a little extra sparkle in your day? Head over to our Instagram stories for a festive Unboxing - and learn where this garment was worn exactly 56 years ago!

Thinking of evening wear for virtual holiday celebrations? Look no further than this 1993 Stephen Burrows sketch on craft paper (a material he often used for his illustrations), shown here in our 2015 exhibition "Inspired Eye: The Donald and Joan Damask Design Collection at the FIDM Museum." The sketch features three formal ensembles from a collection that marked a homecoming for Burrows: a return to Henri Bendel, the place that launched his career in 1969 with a dedicated bo...utique inside the store. For this comeback collection, Burrows combined black jersey, velvet, and chiffon to create "slithery and seductive" silhouettes, such as the flirtatious sheer latticing seen on the middle gown. In her August 1993 article "The Return of an American Original," NYT fashion critic Bernadine Morris observed, "It seemed he always knew how to cut a dress, though never in a conventional manner. His clothes are still inventive and sophisticated, his trademarks from the beginning." SC2013.1250.324 Donald Damask Henri Bendel Archive Gift of Joan Beer Damask & Donald Damask

We're here to make a splash on your timeline - our Collection Conversation on aqua-musical starlet Esther Williams is now available on YouTube! Registrar-Coordinator Leigh Wishner and textile historian Michele Majer, associate at Cora Ginsburg LLC and Assistant Professor at the Bard Graduate Center, discuss Williams' dazzling film costumes, and review their trip to see the exhibition "Esther Williams: The Swimming Queen of the Silver Screen" at the Catalina Island Museum, which featured loans from the FIDM Museum collection. https://youtu.be/5cGyIf3RGXA

Can you guess who our next Collection Conversations guest will be this Friday? Stay tuned tomorrow for the reveal!

When Jonathan Anderson presented an oversized patchwork knit cardigan in his S/S 2020 menswear line, the Northern Irish designer had no idea what a phenomenon it would spark: just one year later, the V&A acquired the sweater for its Textiles and Fashion Collection! The catalyst for this craze? British pop star Harry Styles was spotted in February 2020 wearing the cardigan during a rehearsal for a Today Show appearance - and just a few weeks later, Covid-19 caused a global shu...tdown. "Stylers" (as Harry's fans call themselves) used their sudden free time to produce replicas of the colorful cozy sweater, starting a social media movement with the hashtag #HarryStylesCardigan. Some were new to knitting, finding comfort and community in learning a useful skill. Jonathan Anderson was so touched by the enthusiasm that his brand released a detailed pattern and a video tutorial for home-knitters to follow. Associate Curator Christina Johnson was reminded of the FIDM Museum's own version of the #HarryStylesCardigan: a 1962-63 color-blocked wool cardigan by Rudi Gernreich for Harmon Knitwear. JW Anderson points to children's colorful toys and picture books as the inspiration for his cardigan, while Christina is still hunting for the story behind Rudi's design. The timelessness and popularity of the patchwork cardigan proves that cozy never goes out of style, and, in Christina's words, "good ideas are good ideas, no matter the decade." Pictured: 1. Rudi Gernreich for Harmon Knitwear, 1962-63; FIDM Museum Collection 2. Model wears Rudi Gernreich for Harmon Knitwear patchwork cardigan (1960s) 3. Label, Rudi Gernreich for Harmon Knitwear 4. Detail, Rudi Gernreich for Harmon Knitwear 5. JW Anderson cardigan, S/S 2020 6. Harry Styles wears JW Anderson cardigan, February 2020 7. Cardigan knitting pattern detail, JW Anderson

We were thrilled to participate in FIDM’s IMPD (International Manufacturing & Product Development) Virtual Study Tour last week! In lieu of trips to Paris and Milan, students were given a week of cultural enrichment through digital tours and lectures. We shared objects in our collection to highlight the work of Italian and French designers, and provided an overview of our upcoming Sporting Fashion traveling exhibition. Thank you IMPD for having us! Pictured: 1. Schiaparelli evening jacket, Fall/Winter 1939-40 2. Chanel accessories 3. Après-ski ensemble, 1950s

Learn about these beauties in our next Collection Conversation: TOMORROW (Friday, Dec 4) @ 11 am PST on Instagram Live! Leigh Wishner and Michele Majer will discuss Hollywood aqua-starlet Esther Williams and review their visit to the glam exhibition The Swimming Queen of the Silver Screen at the Catalina Island Museum (pictured). We were proud to participate on this show with the loan of the gold suit and striped gown shown above. Tune in and bring your million dollar mermaid questions with you!

Start your weekend with a little luxury: join Christina Johnson for a Parisian Unboxing with plenty of embellishments along the way! Make sure you watch until the very end - you won’t want to miss the final showstopper. Available now in our Instagram stories!

In the July 1947 issue of Ebony magazine, a reporter followed Mrs. Mayme Wheatley of Washington, D.C. as she visited the Paris ateliers of three couture designers: Robert Piguet, favorite of the young and tall, Jean Dessus, whose impractical triumphs rank with Paris’ most daring, and Madeleine Vramant, noted for smart, easy-to-wear jackets. It’s fascinating to imagine the world of French fashion so soon after the war - the contrast of luxury against the backdrop of a city r...ebuilding. As Ebony notes, Gowns show no signs of scrimping though fabric and even thread have been rare. Even more intriguing is the story of the model and her family: Mayme moved to Paris in 1947 so her husband could study at the Sorbonne on the GI bill. The couple became immersed in French culture, and remained in the country for the rest of their lives. Before relocating to France, Mayme received her undergraduate and Masters in music from Howard University; she was a music and choral instructor at a prestigious Washington D.C. school, and an organizer for Black civil rights in the early 1940s. Her husband, Luis Andres Wheatley, was an accomplished pianist; her sister, Anne Wiggins Brown, was a famed soprano who originated the role of Bess in Gershwin’s 1935 Broadway production of Porgy and Bess. So which ensemble did Mayme choose at the end of this excursion? None - according to Ebony, With money saved on gowns she bought French poetry for herself and music for her husband at a bookstall before Notre Dame Cathedral.

A Centuries-Old Korean Style Gets an Update https://www.nytimes.com///style/hanbok-k-pop-fashion.html

Fall weather calls for lightweight outerwear, and nothing makes a more dramatic impression than this 1980-1982 Norma Kamali Parachute coat dress! Ripstop nylon was chosen as a modern fabric: comfortable to wear and easy to care for. New iterations of the Parachute line continue to appear in Kamali’s work today. You’ll be able to read about her iconic designs and remarkable career when her new book ‘I am Invincible’ is released in February, 2021!

Fellow Californians: October 19 is the voter registration deadline! Visit https://registertovote.ca.gov/ to check your status and register now. This c. 1917 two-piece wool suit was donated with a "Votes for Women" stick pin made by the National Woman Suffrage Publishing Co. Inc. (the sash is reproduction).

Our latest #CollectionConversation on building an exhibition is now available on YouTube - curators Kevin Jones and Christina Johnson discuss their process and answer your questions! https://youtu.be/BLTFexakwHA

TOMORROW! Tune into Instagram Live at 11 am PST for our next Collection Conversation - our curators will discuss how they build an exhibition from concept to installation, and answer your questions about the process. Pictured: gallery images from our 2015 exhibition Inspired Eye: The Donald and Joan Damask Collection.

The FIDM Museum Special Collections is a treasure trove of fashion-related ephemera, from sketches and business records to rare books and magazines. In honor of American Archives month, learn about the selection of archives we hold: http://ow.ly/5ufo50BSOP9

Happy birthday to Charles Frederick Worth, born this day in England in 1825! This c. 1878 silk, velvet, and lace gown with jet beading was featured in our 2011 exhibition FABULOUS! Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions. Interested to learn how our exhibitions come together? Curator Kevin Jones and Associate Curator Christina Johnson will discuss building an exhibition on this week's Collection Conversation: Friday, October 16 at 11 am on Instagram Live. They'll cover the process of selecting the subject, deciding which objects to include, and how they determine curatorial themes. Get a behind-the-scenes look at their curatorial approach - and don't forget to leave your questions for Kevin & Christina below!

This geometric circle skirt is part of a long tradition of piecework clothing for the Seminole and Miccosukee tribes of Florida. Commonly referred to as patchwork, or Taweekaache (design) in the Mikisúkî language, each pattern holds a special meaning; the last photo shows the back of the fabric and the intricacy of the construction. This example dates to 1940-1950 and contains a distinct H motif, as well as a variation on the wave pattern. We are proud to celebrate Indigenous Peoples’ Day and to continue learning about Native American design.

Dressing our Sporting Fashion ladies for their spring road trip to the The Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens! We get a lot of questions about how we dress our mannequins...as you can see, it just takes a lot of skill and a little magic

It’s clear Patrick Kelly loved this black and white textile printed with musical notes- he used it in several iterations for his Summer 1989 collection. The whimsical print fits right in with Kelly’s lighthearted design ethos, and the cotton pique provided enough structure to create a variety of silhouettes. The FIDM Museum Study Collection holds a double breasted blazer in this fabric; pictured is Grace Jones wearing a similar cut, and another model in a skirt suit (publications unknown). In the photo of Kelly with his garments, note the musical notes produced in different scales, as well as a reversed colorway!

Today on the FIDM Museum blog, we remember the joyful work of the late Kenzo Takada: https://blog.fidmmuseum.org//10/remembering-kenzo-takada.h