Sirius Dog Training

#knowyourdog Taken from @ https://ed.gr/c3q36

HUMPING And now that I have your attention I need to explain why dogs hump and that it does not mean that your dog is dominant. ... I'll start by saying that humping is often not sexual. Humans tend to sexualize things and often think that a puppy is just "mature" or "in the mood" and it's simply not true. It is only sexual when a female in heat is around an unaltered male dog, and only then. So why do dogs hump then? Why do puppies do it? Why do females do it? Let me explain. Humping can actually be what's called a displacement behaviour, which means that your dog feels conflicted emotions and isn't sure of what to do. We see this often in dogs who haven't been properly socialized and meet up to play. The unsocialized dog, if still able to socialize could start humping the other dogs because they simply don't know what else to do. It can also signal that your dog is too excited, anxious, frustrated (not in a sexual way) or even over tired. Humping feels good and is often a way that your dog can comfort themselves when feeling uneasy or bored. This is when you'll find your dog might hump an intimate object like a teddy, blanket or a bed. If this is soothing for them, not harming anybody and they're not getting distressed, there isn't any reason to stop that behaviour. So if it's "normal" for dogs to do it, why shouldn't we let them do it? Well, simply, it can be rude. There are some dogs who actually have humping as a play style, but very few, and the dogs who don't accept it as a play style can easily get annoyed and a fight can break out. If your dog humps people, again, it's rude and can be embarrassing. What do you need to do then? Step 1: Make sure that your dog doesn't have an underlying UTI. Some dogs hump because it relieves the irritation and comforts them temporarily. If all health issues have been cleared, move on to step 2. Step 2: Stop the behaviour as soon as it starts. We have a rule in dog training and behaviour, the more a dog practices a behaviour, the more they will do it. If it makes it easier, keep your dog attached to a leash, or a long line and remove them every time they try to hump a person or dog. By removing them, it also teaches them that this behaviour isn't one that we want repeated, and if you need to rather remove them from the situation entirely, do it. Step 3: Train calm behaviour. Since this happens when a dog is overly excited/aroused teaching your dog to be calm can help tremendously. If your dog humps people when they come over, give them a stuffed toy or snuffle mat when people come over to give them a calming, mentally enriching outlet. You can also ask people to ignore your dog until they calm down to prevent your guests hyping up your dog. You can also redirect excited behaviour into calm behaviour and remember to reward them for behaviours that you do want. This takes a lot of time and patience, and you have to start the training in a calm environment before you can build to an exciting one. Step 4: Make sure that you are fulfilling all their basic needs. Are they getting enough enrichment? Do they get enough exercise? Do they sniff enough when they walk? Do they get enough sleep? Do you do enough training with them? Only you'll know the answers to these. Dogs who hump toys, will usually having something lacking in the above questions if it's not a UTI. As awkward as some may find this topic it's one that needs to be discussed. I've seen this happen at parks all too often usually leading in the owner punishing the dog because it's embarrassing, or them ignoring it completely and a fight starting. If people understand the behaviour, maybe we will start having better outcomes.

Lots of times, our dog’s messages get lost in translation. Because we don’t speak the same language, we need to become close observers of our dogs. By learning what they’re trying to communicate we can improve our relationships immensely. Are any of these translations new to you?

Thanks for sharing, Dogs Abound.

Many times every week I tell owners of reactive dogs the same thing: Please stop worrying about taking your dog for exercise walks. Maybe it is time to stop wal...ks for a while. And here is why. . If your dog crosses his threshold reliably when you walk him - whether that is because he reacts intensely to every dog in the neighborhood or he is highly anxious about traffic noises or he cannot be around people at this point - then every time you expose him to his trigger in a high intensity HIS REACTIONS WILL GET WORSE. . Stress responses rarely disappear into thin air one day. Rather, the dog goes through a cycle of encountering his trigger - being stressed - reacting intensely - and becoming EVEN MORE LIKELY to react badly the next time. . What you might be doing by continuously walking your reactive dog in an environment that’s full of trigger is to actually ingrain and strengthen his reactive response. . Now, I am all for exercising dogs both physically and mentally. But we need to look at this in the bigger picture. What good does it do if your dog had a 2 mile walk but he flipped out 10 times during it? Is this really the level of adrenaline you want him to associate with a stroll around the neighborhood? Should we not weigh the dog’s longterm mental wellbeing against the benefits of physical exercise through walking? (By the way - an on-leash walk is not actually tiring physical exercise for most healthy adult dogs anyway) . For most dogs with reactivity problems, we need to cease all random exposure to triggers and work on them in isolated, well-planned out settings. This could mean not walking your dog in your neighborhood at 7pm when everyone else is out. Or maybe not at all in your neighborhood - and instead in a less busy area nearby. Or maybe it means finding other forms of exercising his mind and body for a while. Please do not feel like you need to walk your dog in the presence of his triggers daily. . You know your own dog best. Does he seem highly stressed after his walks because he encountered a dozen scary and difficult situations? Then that walk is probably not worth it. . Be your dog’s advocate - if you listen to your intuition you probably already know if he should be walked or not. See more

Walk is for the dog! #walkisforthedog #dogtraining #tromplo #dogs

Use your Manners! The Sniff test - Stop doing that! The sniff test - a badly engrained habit that society has been taught, without a clear understanding of ...what they're actually doing. When you reach out towards a dog, you are using body pressure AT them, giving them no time to assess whether you are safe & whether they require further investigation to pick up your information. You are forcing an interaction of a relationship that hasn't had time to develop. To some dogs, this is quite rude & the reason a lot of dogs snap at or bite people. This can cause alot of behavioral issues because of layered stress due to forced interactions. If they are on lead, they have no where to go if they are sensitive to spacial pressure, so can end up shutting down, shying away or snapping at your hand so you back off. This is an example of how a dog is now using pressure to turn off pressure & make you back off so they aren't so stressed. People think by offering your hand it can give the dog time to sniff to know you're friendly... they can sniff without being forced to sniff your hand.Their noses are far more superior than ours & they don't need close contact forced upon them to smell you. Some dogs might not want to know you. You have no relationship with them and that's perfectly fine. They aren't your dog so you don't need to touch them or steal pats for your own satisfaction. If you are meeting a dog, what should you do? Ask the owner if you can interact with their dog. Not all people want strangers touching their dogs. Especially strangers who you are unlikely to see again. Stand up straight & relaxed, with your hands at your side. Ignore the dog & talk to the owner. Don't stare at the dog & don't try to force an interaction by going in for a pat. If the dog wants to know you, it will come up to you & sniff around. Usually they will move away & then come back for a second sniffathon. Some dogs will bunt your hands & wag their tails, which are good signs that you're likely an accepted new friend. Give them a few slow pats down their back (NOT THEIR HEAD) & then stop. Is the dog happy? Has it accepted your interaction? This will determine whether you can give it more pats. This is a more stress free option for dogs & a reason why in consultations we can develop a good level of trust, especially with fearful dogs & aggressive dogs, without a bunch of negative side effects from forced interactions.

REALLY important! If you are a pet parent, this is a must!

QUICK TIP: I recently watched as someone was attempting to get his dog to sit. The dog didn't sit. I demonstrated and the dog sat promptly for me. He tried agai...n, and no response. I demonstrated again. Same thing. The only conclusion I could come to was that the relationship wasn't there. The dog clearly understood the cue, and the reinforcement was the same. We each had the same food rewards. When I'm with a dog, the dog has my full attention. I am fully "present" with the dog. I have established a trust relationship to start before ever beginning any training, and along the way have established a reinforcement history. The dog knows what to expect, knows I will not frighten or hurt him, and knows that I will be fair. I tell my clients that the way I say my cues is with the total expectation that the dog will respond - not with force, but with certainty. I use cues, not commands, but I expect the dog will respond based on what I have taught him and learned about this dog's behavior, but also due to our relationship. It's hard to describe, but I think dogs pick up on doubt and inconsistency. They base their response on their relationship with the individual giving the cues and the training and experience they've had with that person. I've seen it time and time again. So how do you get this relationship? Your dog has to like and trust you. You've heard the saying that you need to be consistent in training. Dogs are keen observers of behavior. Being nonverbal, they listen to what you say, but moreover they listen to how you say it and watch what you DO. They see everything and make an assessment as to whether you're a person they like and can trust, and choose their response. Cindy Ludwig, Canine Connection LLC Willard, MO www.clicker.solutions

Moderator. A great reminder for building reliable recall - make lots of deposits into the recall is awesome! bank, rather than withdrawals.

Moderator. #memesaturday

MYTHBUSTING MONDAY: When was the last time you watched a nature program and heard the announcer say, "This hippopotamus is not very food-motivated"? What abou...t a raccoon? A bear? A wolf? All animals need food to survive. And our domestic dogs are no different. So, when someone tells me their dog "isn't food-motivated," it immediately has me wondering why. HEALTH: If a dog regularly turns down food at home, a vet check is in order. Does the dog have gastrointestinal issues? Does the dog have dental issues? Is there some other undetected condition causing discomfort? STRESS: If the dog is a healthy eater at home, but stops eating food when on walks or other locations outside the home, we need to look for signs of stress. Low tail, low ears held back, panting when not hot, hyper vigilance, failure to respond to cues, and other indications that you don't normally see when your dog is relaxed and happy. If the dog is fine eating all sorts of food at home and on walks, but stops when dogs, people, cyclists, motorcycles, cars, etc., pass by, that is likely an indication of anxiety. Few people realize that over-stimulation and excitement are also forms of stress and can impact a dog's appetite, as well. PREFERENCE/COMPETING MOTIVATION: Sometimes it's the choice of food that the owner offers that is the problem. I know a lot of dogs that love to crunch on baby carrots at home. But when their owners bring a bag of baby carrots to the first night of class, the dog isn't interested. That could be stress/anxiety about the new environment and/or other dogs, or it could be that the motivation to interact with the other dogs is stronger than the dog's love of carrots. I (human) like to eat raisins. But if I have the opportunity to play with puppies or eat raisins, puppies win. Every. Single. Time. Swap out raisins and replace them fresh abalone, and now I might be experiencing a little conflict. Puppies or abalone? I can head over to my local shelter and play with puppies pretty much whenever I want. But abalone is hard to come by. I only get it maybe once every few years. Abalone is much higher value than puppies. So, it's not surprising that those dogs who turn down the carrots are suddenly food-motivated again as soon as I pull out cheese, hot dogs, or Red Barn beef roll. One dog turned down everything I offered until I pulled out the baby food. Another dog lit up when I pulled out some leftover smoked pheasant that I'd tossed in my bag. Sometimes these dogs just need us to whet their appetite a bit with something super fantastic (like the pheasant), and then they are ready to take food that they'd previously turned down. This is why I like to have a bit of a trail mix of meats, cheeses, and crunchies (my dog loves Cheerios). DELIVERY ISSUES: I've also seen a dog's physiology be the reason they get labeled as not food-motivated. For example, two Shar Peis I worked with had such large muzzles, that they had trouble taking the treats from my hand. As soon as I made adjustments in my method of delivery, we were back on track. Same with a colleague of mine who adopted a Greyhound that appeared to not be motivated by food...until she realized that his very large overbite made it difficult for her to take food from her hand. Some dogs aren't all that excited about being hand fed, but toss those treats and suddenly they will work for ALL the food! FREE FEEDING: Some dogs that are "free fed," meaning they graze from a full bowl of food all day, can seem a little picky. In these cases, the dog can get food anytime they want, so the motivation to work for the food isn't always that high (although I find it rare that a dog with a full bowl of dry kibble isn't still willing to work for hot dogs). For these dogs, trainers recommend limiting feeding times to 20 minutes in the morning and evening. Having a dog on a regular schedule has many benefits, including a more predictable housetraining schedule! We have a saying in the training world. If a dog is truly not food-motivated, he's not breathing. If a dog is refusing food, rule out medical issues, watch for signs of stress, and make sure what you're offering is more interesting to him than everything else in the environment. Finally, if your dog has always had a healthy appetite and suddenly walks away from his meal, a vet check is in order ASAP. BUTS "But MY dog..." Yeah, I get it. You believe your dog isn't food-motivated. Again, there are plenty of reasons they might not take the treats you offer. All I'm saying is that before you slap a label on your dog like "Not Food-Motivated," you make sure you've ruled out some of the other explanations, above. "But my dog prefers to work for play." That's great! That doesn't mean he/she isn't food-motivated. And there are times that tug or fetch isn't appropriate to use as a reinforcer, like at an outdoor restaurant. Use as many different reinforcers as you can, whenever they will work. I certainly do. "But I don't agree with you..." That's fine. You don't have to. Just make sure you aren't imposing your personal beliefs on your dog and ruling out the possibility that there could be a reason your dog refuses the treats you offer. Because if there is and you dismiss it, it could come back to be a problem later on. Bottom line: Dogs need food to survive, just like other animals. Dogs evolved as scavengers, which makes them opportunistic feeders. So, when a dog refuses food, there's usually a reason. Don't simply label your dog as not food-motivated. Look deeper. Make sure there isn't something else going on. Then continue to use fetch or tug or lottery tickets as a reinforcer, if that's truly what your dog prefers. --------------- Need help with your dog? Check out my on-demand webinars for fear, aggression, and more! http://www.growlsnarlsnap.com/ondemand --------------- COPYRIGHT NOTICE. 2017 Lisa Mullinax. All rights reserved. Please feel free to share on Facebook via the Share link. Downloading for redistribution in any form, for any reason (including Instagram, etc.) is a violation of copyright

Smell is 1 of the 5 senses. It is very common to hear or read #letthemsniff or #sniffari for dog walks, but why is this important? A dog's acute sense of smel...l if infinitely superior than ours, in fact it is estimated to be 100,000 more sensitive than ours. While we have 5 million sensory receptors in our nose, dogs have around 300 million, and each sense of smell is breed dependent with genetic influences. For example, bloodhounds are quite good at picking up ground scents while collies are better at smelling air scents. Dogs can be trained to smell cancer, our emotional states, narcotics, explosives, hormones, health status of other animals, temperature/environmental changes and even now dogs are being trained to smell to test for COVID. Dogs see the world through their nose. They’re made for it. Their olfactory bulb in their brain takes up a lot of space and is connected to different parts of the brain that is responsible for behaviour, memory, emotions, taste and helps forms associations. This is why it is important to let your dog sniff on walks, it’s their walk to learn about the world, process the information and as it is connected to their brain, this process from nose to mind positively improves their behaviour and health, creating a much calmer dog. For more information on a dog’s super sniffer sense of smell watch this TEDEx Talk by Dr. Alexandra Horowitz https://www.youtube.com/watch